Thread count generally applies to woven fabrics. It is the number of weft yarns (picks) in a specified length of fabric plus the number of warp yarns (ends) in a specified width of the fabric. Warp and weft strands are counted as single units, regardless of the number of yarn plies.

In the case of bed linen consumers have often been misled by claims of thread counts. Its definition has at times been corrupted to mean the number of threads, both vertical and horizontal, multiplied by their respective number of single yarns in a plied yarn in a one-inch square of fabric. This meant a fabric made from two ply yarns was described as 800 count, when it should have correctly been labelled 400 count.

Thread count is a simple measure of the quality of the fabric and it refers to its coarseness or fineness. Whilst this may be a consideration, there are other important features to consider when measuring comfort, quality, and value: the type of fibre, the reaction obtained from the sense of touch of the fabric, and the nature of the finishing process.

Often people try to measure the quality of linen sheets by trying to compare the thread counts of linen with the more familiar cotton bed linen counts. However, to compare the thread count of one with the other is not to compare like with like. The count can only really be used to compare cotton sheeting with cotton sheeting and vice versa.

Flax linen is generally regarded as one of the finest qualities of bed linen you can buy, cool crisp linen bed sheets are prized above all others for their enhanced properties and their naturalness, purity, smoothness, durability and beauty, and they are considered by many to be the healthiest material for sleeping. Made from the fibre of the flax plant, linen has by its nature a lower thread count than cotton percale as the threads are thicker and more loosely woven. Also, as the yarn is rarely used in the plied form there is less confusion as to whether it is the true thread count or not. When new, linen has a slightly 'slubby' appearance, but the more it is washed the softer and more luminous it becomes. So it improves with age and use. Linen is more expensive than cotton, as it requires many more process to take it to the fabric stage, but with normal domestic use it is very long lasting and once you've experienced sleeping in linen, nothing else is quite the same.

A good explanation is found in Wikipidia, and in about.com.

Beds come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Most countries have a standard set of four sizes of mattresses. While the Double size appears to be standard among English speaking countries, based on the imperial measurement of 4 ft 6 in by 6 ft 3 in, the sizes for other bed types tend to vary. The European sizes differ; they are based on the metric system.

The sizes in the UK, other than the Double, vary compared to the U.S. sizes, being generally smaller. The U.S. Queen corresponds to UK King and King to Super King. The European or continental basic sizes are similar to the UK but have a set length of 2 metres. The denominations Queen, King and Super King are not used in continental Europe, and Double refers to 140cm or any higher width. Instead of these US/UK denominations, the bed width is given in centimeters.

With flat sheets the size should be at least 24" (61cm) wider and longer than the mattress. If you own an extra-deep mattress, be aware of the extra allowance required. Choose the largest sizes available so there will be an adequate length to tuck in at least 12" (31cm) underneath the end of the bed. In some cases it may be necessary to purchase the next size up (a queen flat sheet for a double bed, etc.), in order to cover the deeper mattress.

For fitted sheets Fergusons make these individually for each customer. You will need to supply the mattress width, length and depth.

Pillowcases should be at least 4" (10cm) longer than the pillow.

All Thomas Ferguson linens are quoted to a size tolerance of +/- 3%, as is stated on account holders order acknowledgements.

Weaving linen is a craft art and is not a precision science such as engineering with metal. Exact sizes are not easily achievable, nor are they normally necessary, so Ferguson's do not usually go to the extra costs of producing near precise sizes unless the customer makes a clear and specific request for a very special purpose. Under certain circumstances they can be achieved, to a reasonable level of precision, at an extra cost.

It must also be remembered that fabrics made from natural fibres such as linen shrink after laundering. This is stated on the label and can be in the order of 4 to 5% in the width and 7 to 8% in the length. However, with most items other than very long tablecloths this is not too significant, and can to an extent be disregarded by allowing a reasonable all round drop of 30-45cm (12-18"), on top of the table top dimensions. For long cloths please ask Ferguson's.

All items can be produced oversized to allow for shrinkage. So sizes quoted are after wash dimensions. This is done by request only.

You can use the Ferguson interactive size guide to help  choose a tablecloth size, for your table. This will direct you to the nearest standard size which is normally in stock, however specials, or custom sizes can be made on request.

It is much more cost effective for customers to accept the nearest standard size than to request a special custom cloth be designed and woven.

Thomas Ferguson stock sizes fit standard size tables. If you require a custom size tablecloth please contact us. We will be pleased to help.

As a rule of thumb, 30cm (12 inches) should be allowed for drape at each side and end, meaning that a tablecloth should ideally be 60cm (24 inches) wider and longer than the corresponding table. To help with the calculation please see the Thomas Ferguson Tablecloth Size Calculator.

This calculator does not take natural shrinkage into account. This can be ignored on smaller tablecloths, but on large tablecloths, where shrinkage can be significant, a washed size cloth should be asked for, i.e. this is manufactured and supplied oversized to allow for shrinkage.

If you require a different overhanging/drape length on your tablecloth, maybe down to the ground, this will need to be calculated separately. The size calculator does not allow for this.

Taking advice from the Emily Post Institute which states that setting a table is not as difficult as it seems. There are three occasions described:

1. Basic Everyday Place Setting
2. Informal Place Setting
3. Formal Place Setting

Proper damask tablecloths come in a number of standard sizes. A good tablecloth will have damask pattern specially designed to fit each standard size. They will have a plain border, and a square, rectangular, circular or oval (D-End) outer pattern, and an inner pattern running around all four sides. If there is one flaw in one of these tablecloths during weaving or making-up the whole item is lost, so they are very costly to produce.

Cheaper tablecloths can be cut from plain, or damask fabric with an all over design, or with the two pattern bands running the whole length of the fabric (no cross bands). The tablecloth of the required size does not have to be designed, but can be simply cut to size from the fabric bolt. This tablecloth is less costly to produce because if there is a small fault on the fabric, that small strip can simply be cut off, wasting maybe only a few centimetres. 

This article which was pointed out to us in the Massachusetts publication, South Coast Today. Probably sums it up with the use of irony.

"

Thanksgiving is time of year when everyone should bother

Why use a tablecloth when it's sure to get stains on it? A plastic cover only requires wiping. Why use real napkins, when they would only need to be washed and ironed afterwards? Paper can be thrown away. Why use the silver, when it would have to be polished first? There's enough of the everyday stuff if the children use the picnic things. Why use the good china, when it probably shouldn't go in the dishwasher and will have to be done by hand? With paper plates, you don't even have to scrape off the garbage. Why use the good glasses, when someone is bound to break one? With plastic glasses, no one has to be nervous. Why get flowers for the table, when they're so expensive and they don't last? Nobody notices, anyway. Why set the table at all, when things can be put out buffet-style for people to take what they want? That way, you don't have to serve them and they can fight among themselves over the drumsticks. Why use platters, when it would just mean getting something else dirty? Today's pots are made to go from the oven to the table. Why plan on having everyone sit down together, when they always wander in at different times and get up from the table whenever they feel like it? They would probably prefer watching television during dinner to making conversation, anyway. Why dress up, when jeans and running clothes are more comfortable? It's only going to be family and friends. Ah, yes. Welcome to the contemporary Thanksgiving dinner, where the theme of the day is: Why bother? This is a rather serious revision of the old theme, which Miss Manners recalls as having to do with giving thanks for bounty and the ability to share it with honored guests. It also happens to wipe out the purpose of ceremony as a special occasion where the spiritual meaning is symbolically expressed in aesthetic terms. Mind you, Miss Manners is not indifferent to the fact that it takes work and money to put on a festive dinner. She wouldn't dream of wondering why the holiday trash is filled with cans and cartons, or whether the hosts have personally crushed cranberries into jellied oblivion. And she is aware that gracious celebrations are often put on by people whose only collection of silver is kept in their change purses. It's not the dry goods; it's the attitude. No, wait. Miss Manners doesn't quite mean that. It's the dry goods, too. Let's not have any of that nonsense along the lines of "What's the difference how I dish out the food as long as I have a good heart?" What she means is that hospitality is about taking whatever trouble you can, and putting out the best of what you have, whatever it is. Deciding that the best household possessions are too good to be used for the same people -- family and friends -- who sent them as wedding presents in the first place is not what she would call the proper spirit. Thus, it is the concept of hospitality, much more than the silver, that has become tarnished and ugly. Hosts have adopted the cynical approach of asking what's in it for them. Admittedly encouraged in this by guests who won't do their share -- who won't show up when asked, dress for the occasion, stay through the meal, or make themselves charming to others -- they refuse to put themselves out for a bunch of ingrates. The result is that there will be a lot of hosts and guests assembling for the holidays with the determination to do as little as possible to put themselves out for one another. Miss Manners wonders why they bother."

From:http://www.s-t.com/daily/11-96/11-17-96/e11ad018.htm

Linen damask is a figured fabric made from one warp and one weft in which, generally, warp-satin and weft-sateen weaves interchange. Twill or binding weaves are sometimes introduced.

Pure Linen Damask is the name given to products woven from pure flax yarns in a special manner so that subtle patterns are visible even in an all white cloth, woven from all white yarns. This process requires threads to be woven in contrasting directions, which creates a pattern that is visible when viewed at certain angles. Across large surfaces, damask fabrics are most extraordinary, as shifting light sources continually reveal new designs to the eye in hide and seek fashion.

Yes, this is what Thomas Ferguson specialise in, we are pleased to offer custom sizes in many of our collections 

For further information or to order a custom size, please contact us and we will be happy to help you.

Please note that custom items are not returnable unless defective, and as they are often designed, woven, finished and made up from scratch they can take 12-14 weeks to complete. Custom sizes which are made up from standard fabric will take only a few weeks, and can be fast tracked in a shorter period if required, at a small extra charge.

Double damask is a fabric from another era. To maximise the production benefits of modern looms a higher warp thread count is normally used than weft thread count. This allows more cloth, of a given weight, to be produced for less weft picks. Double damask is different from ordinary damask in that it has a lower warp thread count than weft thread count, this allows a dense high thread count fabric to be produced, as the weft yarns are beat up tight in the fabric. However, it is a much more expensive way of weaving because it takes longer to weave a given length of fabric. Also, to allow this dense packing of yarn a looser twill weave is used than in ordinary damask.

Apart from the higher thread count there are certain designs which are exclusive to double damask, because the higher number of yarns allows finer definition and some designs, such as Fine Scroll, because of its fine detail require the high thread count of double damask to bring out the best in it.

So to summarise the differences, double damask uses finer more high quality weft yarn, it has a higher weight per unit area, it has more weft picks than warp ends per inch, it is a different weave, it is a more expensive weaving process because you get less fabric per hour because of the extra picks, and often the loom has to be run slower to avoid damaging the yarns because of the tight beat up. On top of this its designs can be more intricate because of the higher definition allowed with the greater thread count. It should also last longer as the finer high quality yarns allow more launderings.

In the past when there were many Irish linen companies, and there was over-capacity of production in the industry. Some unscrupulous weavers, in order to use the name double damask, produced a lower quality fabric by lowering the thread count. They wished to use the name, because a proper well made double damask was associated with quality, and could achieve a premium price in the market.

As stated earlier, to allow the dense packing of yarn, a looser twill weave is used when weaving double damask than in ordinary damask. This requires a high thread count to stabilise the fabric. With a low thread count this was not the case.

These poorly made fabrics were sub standard, and normal damask was in many instances a better buy. This forced the hand of the Irish Linen Guild and they brought in a minimum thread count for double damask.

Those days are long gone, and today, Thomas Ferguson double damasks are most defintely a high quality, premium product, woven from superior quality yarns than normal damask.

Men's and, to a lesser degree, ladies' handkerchiefs, are produced with a border running round the four sides. The border may be composed of cords or tapes or a combination of both. Cords are made up of a heavy 3-ply cotton which stands out from the ground linen yarns. Tapes are made up of a 2-ply cotton with 3-ply binders at either side to define them.

When bordered linen handkerchiefs are bleached in the piece, we have an all-white cloth, but the Cords and Tapes, made from heavier yarn than the ground linen yarns, stand out in relief.

by S. C. LUTTON

Thomas Ferguson may be able to help with some historic information relating to Irish linen and old Irish linen companies, or antique linens. However, this is not really our area of expertise. Likewise, The Irish Linen Guild may be able to help in a limited way, but it's function is really promoting modern Irish linen companies.

For valuations of antique linens it is probably best to contact a local auction house, or antique shop. For historic information on old companies, or linens a good point of contact is the Irish Linen Museum, in Lisburn, Northern Ireland.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irish_linen

Yes, swatches may be obtained for most fabric/designs. An option for ordering a swatch is found on relevant product pages. Unfortunately because filling an order for swatches involves many of the same steps required to fill a normal product order, we do have to make a small charge for swatches. This charge (up tp £10 max.) will be refunded on request if you subsequently make a single purchase in excess of £100.

Swatches of linen double damask  and linen damask are available.

If your request is for a custom sized damask tablecloth with a cross-bordered/framed design which must be specially designed and woven, etc. Normally it will take 12-14 working weeks; if we have the design in our archive. Thomas Ferguson has a very great number of special sizes in the design archive, although they may not be offered in our standard range.

If we have to originate a new design or size it may take a further 3-6 weeks, i.e. 19-20 working weeks in total. However, this depends on sight of your artwork, and our work loads in the design department at the time.

Please ask if we have the design in our archive.

If we do have that design in our archive, and have woven it before there will be no extra charge for the special item. If we do have it in our archive but have never woven the size you require before there is a small design and administration charge to cover costs.

Design of New Size & Waiting to get loom time:  2 weeks (3-6 weeks if it is a new design or size which must be originated from scratch)

Weaving a batch size suitable for bleaching and finishing:                                                      2-3 weeks

Bleaching, Dyeing and Finishing:                       5-8 weeks

inspection/cutting/sewing/pressing/packing:       1-2 weeks

If your request is for a tablecloth, bedlinen, church linens, etc. cut and made from plain or all over design fabric which we hold in stock, unless it is a large order, we will dispatch in our  normal delivery period, as stated in our delivery information. However, often we can dispatch quicker within approximately 2 weeks.

Ours is a craft weaving process and quality is paramount. We always try to ensure our customers long wait is made worthwhile, and please remember designs which must be originated mean your cloth is completely unique, and has never been made before.

Design department time is generally charged per hour. The better the quality artwork supplied, generally the quicker the job, and the lower the cost. As it requires very much less time trying to interpret the design; editing time, and getting customer approval.

If the item is in stock we will endeavour to dispatch as soon as possible. Normally within 3-10 days, depending on the time of the year and volume of work. If items are required to be fast tracked for a special gift or occasion we will always do our best to help. This may sometimes require a small extra charge. Please contact us with details.

We do not use the cheapest means to ship your goods as these have proved to be very unreliable in the past. People often require linens to arrive as a gift for a wedding, or a tablecloth for a special event. It cannot be late, lost or damaged, and we use tried and tested methods of shipping, which work best from our area, and which limit these unwanted problems. 

In our delivery information we state delivery will normally take place within 28 days from receipt of your order. This is in part to allow for periods of annual closure, or very busy periods. These normally occur:

In most cases the packaging is stated in the explanatory text which accompanies all products. If it is absent at this stage it is definitely stated at the shopping basket stage.

Thomas Ferguson, on the whole,  has the following types of packaging:

1. Luxury Gift Box (used mainly for damask table linen)
2. Natural Kraft Box (used mainly for natural linens)
3. Standard Box (used for bed linen other table linen)
4. Polybag (same presentation as in box, minus box)
5. Handkerchief Pack (small presentation pack)
6. Other Items Pack (basic presentation for own use, not really suitable for gift)
7. Loose or Shrinkwrapped (most basic presentation strictly for own use, not as gift. Used on more basic items)

All of the Thomas Ferguson fine linen damasks are supplied in luxury gift boxes. Natural (ecru) fine linens are supplied in  natural kraft paper covered boxes which are in keeping with thier natural finish.

Virtually all the rest of the Thomas Ferguson main table linen section in the online shop are supplied in gift boxes.The only exception are Etamine and Daisy Design table runners, which are supplied in a gift polybag presentation.

All Fergusons main section bedlinen is supplied in presentation boxes.

Handkerchiefs are generally supplied in packaging suitable for gifts.

The Gifts And Accessories supplied in boxes are suitable for gifts. Those in packs or polybags may be okay, but repackaging is recommended.

Tea Towels are quite basically packed, and again may be okay for gift packaging, but an upgrade is recommended.

Special Offers are definitely not packed as gifts. They are sold in basic packaging to keep the price down, as they are on the whole aimed at own use. Some of the handkerchief offers, or others where it is obvious from the image are of course suitably packaged for use as third party gifts.

Thomas Ferguson's internet payment service provider is Secure Trading. Secure Trading's system detects possible duplicates if all the data is identical, and suspends and does not settle both orders (only one is processed). This happens even if your duplicate order is intentional.

If your duplicate order is intentional please inform us so that we can have this default overridden.

Even though this safety feature is in place, it does no harm to inform us if you think you have duplicated an order.

U.S. customers may be asked to supply their E I N number by the  shipping company, i.e. :, (Fedex). Your purchase will be held at U.S. customs for release,  failure to supply this number may mean the items will be returned to Thomas Ferguson's, the supplier, and cause inconvenience for yourselves and a return shipping charge . 5 days are allowed before items are returned.

This is not a Thomas Ferguson requirement and should only be requested by US shipping companies. We believe it is for US tax reasons and also to do with the U.S. Patriot Act.

All Thomas Ferguson online shop transactions are handled by Secure Trading. SecureTrading is the UK's leading independent Internet payment service provider.

Secure Trading systems are at physically secure locations, and use high levels of encryption to ensure the safety of your transaction information. Thomas Ferguson does not recieve your credit card information, this is handled by Secure Trading.

When you get to the checkout stage of the Thomas Ferguson online shop if you look up at the URL of this page you will notice that it begins with https://. This means that it is on a Secure Server and all transactions that take place are encrypted between your browser and the server. Nobody is able to obtain your credit card details nor other information.

At the checkout stage you can pay with Visa, Switch, Mastercard, Solo or Delta.

Thomas Ferguson only charges shipping at cost. These costs include the actual transportation costs, and the labour and material costs of transit packing.

Due to previous bad experiences Thomas Ferguson does not use the absolute cheapest method. Ferguson products are quite costly luxury goods, often purchased as gifts, and we must do our best to ensure reliable, on time delivery for our customers. We use the method we feel gives best all round value, even though it may cost extra.

All our carriers shipping costs are charged by weight. There is an initial delivery charge, then incremental increases based on weight. Therefore, you usually get better shipping value, per unit weight, the heavier your order. Obviously the further away you are, or if you live in a remote part of the world,  the more the shippers charge.

On the whole Fergusons use shipping methods where delivery must be signed for. This allows a degree of tracking, compensation for loss, and usually provides a quicker more reliable service. The aim of all our couriers is to deliver to all but the most remote parts of the world in no more than 5-6 days. Delivery within Europe is usually no more than 3 days, and within the British Isles even quicker is aimed for.

Generally the methods used are:

UK-    under 2kg     Royal Mail Signed For

Elsewhere- under 2kg  Royal Mail International Signed For

UK- Over 2kg  TNT

Ireland (ROI & North)- over 2kg DHL

Rest of the World- over 2kg   TNT Economy & Fedex

If you require a next day service this can be provided on request. This is charged at cost.